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A Scow Tuning Guide
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  See
also : Sail an A Boat Faster,
by Buddy Melges
Mast and shroud set-up
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Mast set-up
The mast should be set-up so that the
aft side of the mast is within 1" of the forward side of
the black band. The mast must be forward of the band by
rule.
The mast should be tuned from the deck
up (every A Scow has a dip in one rail so you cannot measure
down to the chainplates with the jib halyard).
- Step mast - hook up headstay and backstays
but keep loose.
- Attach intermediates only, adjust so
that mast is centered in the mast well at deck
- Sight up mast to insure straightness,
tighten intermediates evenly to approximately 500 to 600
pounds using a Loos tension gauge.
- Attach lowers, snug up so mast is straight
down low.
- Attach uppers, tighten evenly to keep
mast straight above headstay. Put about
- 300 pounds on uppers to start.
- Go sailing, sight up aft side of mast
and adjust uppers and lowers only to get a slight sag
from the tip to boom— do not change intermediates.
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John Galley's new custom carbon swept rig on his new 2001
A Scow. New rig eliminates the need of a backstay and bookim.
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Mast Rake
AP sail mast rake setting is 42' 8", measured with tape (pull
tape up fastened to the main halyard and measure to aft corner
of transom).
Fine tuning the mast rake:
Light air: Mast should be close to vertical when boat
is sitting flat in the water.
As the wind builds, rake the mast aft to keep the boat settled-in
and driving. If the boat feels "jumpy" or "crabby" rake the mast
aft.
Heavy air: The mast should be raked aft so that the mainsheet
pulleys trim close to "block to block".
Downwind:
Light to Medium air: the mast should be vertical.
Heavy air: Mast should be vertical with symmetrical spinnakers,
with the asymmetrical spinnaker keep the mast rake aft and reach
downwind.
Jib Set Up
The jibs should be set up so that they are low to the deck. The
foot skirt should curl on the deck In light air. The jib should
be set up fairly full down low, as the wind builds you will want
to gradually flatten the foot of the jib and twist open the upper
leech. The upper leech should have a telltale on the top batten.
This tell-tale should always be flowing. To find the correct trim,
trim until the telltale stalls and then ease the sheet until it
begins flowing— that would be maximum trim.
Jib luff: Just pull the wrinkles out in all conditions.
Over tensioning the luff may over stretch the sail.
Jib Track: The maximum inboard position would be even
with inboard edge of cockpit. Ease outboard in medium/heavy wind
to keep mainsail from backwinding. Set to the maximum outboard
setting when reaching and running.
Mainsail Controls
Cunningham:
Light air - None.
Medium air - Pull out wrinkles.
Heavy air - Pull hard to move draft forward and open leech.
Vang
Light air - Loose.
Medium air - Snug to keep boom from skying.
Heavy air - Very firm to vang sheet in puffs.
Outhaul
Light air - pull out vertical wrinkles.
Medium air - Pull out vertical wrinkles, or pull to black
band to flatten and depower.
Heavy air - Pull to black band.
Running backstay
Light air - Keep soft to sag headstay and power up the
jib.
Medium air - Ease in lulls, pull hard in puffs to depower
and flatten jib
Heavy air - Pull very hard to depower and flatten jib
Permanent backstay
Light air - Loose.
Medium air - Loose
Heavy air - Some tension to flatten out and twist top
of main if necessary.
Downwind - Put a mark on the backstay or knots in the
lines for maximum forward downwind mast position (mast vertical).
Mast Ram
Light air - Allow ram to free float, or ram forward to
flatten main if it is too full and round behind mast.
Medium air - Cleat in neutral position to vang against.
Heavy air - Neutral to some aft ram to keep main from
turning inside out down low.
Downwind - Sight up mast and make mast straight, ram usually
needs to be pulled forward to prevent mast from inverting when
backstays are eased.
Traveler
Light air - Pull to windward of centerline approximately
8"-10".
Medium air - Center and work down in puffs to keep boat
on her lines.
Heavy air - Work up and down in puffs. Maximum out is
at rudder posts.
Sheet
Light air - Twist top batten open, keep top leech telltale
flowing.
Medium air - Trim until top telltale stalls half of the
time. Or sight back 1/3 of top batten parallel to boom.
Heavy air - Flatten and twist top of main work and work
sheet aggressively.
Downwind
Symmetrical
- 0 - 6 knots - Use mid-size runner reacher and induce
maximum heel to leeward. Keep pole one foot off headstay and
keep constant angle of heel with pressure.
- Over 6 knots - Put up the big one and run deep when
you have pressure. Keep maximum heel. Board down 1/4. Main Maximum
out. Work pole aft in puffs.
- Jibe the pole - Jibe the pole with two people. Jibe
the sheets with two people.
Asymmetricals
- 0 - 6 knots - Use the small asymmetrical. Induce Maximum
leeward heel. Take jib down if necessary.
- Over 6 knots - Use the big one. Keep maximum heel,
Use 1/3 board. Work the shifts. Work the puffs.
Hoisting asymmetricals
Hoist halyard first, under main and keep sail under control to
leeward. At the same time pull out bow sprit.
When ready pull out tack and fill chute. Sometimes it helps to
put some 30' or so of the sail in stops or rubber bands to keep
it from filling.
Jibing asymmetricals
Always Jibe asymmetricals inside the luff. Use a trimmer on each
sheet and one person overhauling new sheet on new leeward side.
Asymmetrical takedowns
The windward take down - Head the boat straight down wind,
start Jibing spinnaker and overhaul windward sheet around until
clew is at spinnaker bag. Some one must always control foot and
call for tack release or it will go straight in the water. The
person who releases the halyard must also release tack line and
tail them down. The helmsman should steer the boat so as to blow
the chute onto the deck.
Leeward take down - The best way to do a leeward takedown
is to be able to blow the tack away with a snapshackle and let
the chute turn inside out.
For the windwrd and leeward takedowns, experiment with blowing
off the tack line while holding the halyard until foot is under
control.
Mexican take down - Approach the leeward mark on starboard
tack approximately 1.5 boat lengths to windward of buoy. When
just shy of port layline Jibe the boat and at the same time trim
the chute tight on the port side, as the chute blows into the
rig release the halyard and drop the chute on the deck. Keep control
of the foot and sail to keep it out of the water, steer under
sail, tail tack and halyard lines down. This is the most effective
take down if done properly.
Trouble Shooting
Too much windward helm - Remedies: first, make sure ram
is not forcing mast aft. Pull on a bit more running backstay.
If this doesn't get rid of excessive helm, then rake mast aft.
Finally pull up board slightly.
Can't point - Jib car might be too high, or jib is set-up
too full down low. Ram too far aft or you have too much running
backstay.
Leeward helm downwind - Not enough board
For tuning help, contact the North
A Scow experts.
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