A Scow Tuning Article
Sail
Information || A
Scow Tuning Guide || Contact
A Scow Experts || Order
Sail an A Boat Faster
by Buddy Melges
Set up: Winds 5 12
m.p.h.
- Mast Rake Hoist tape measure to
black band then take to transom corner and measure 428".
- Jib Should be set on halyard ball
to allow 2" of scope left when at maximum tension on luff control.
Start high on clew board so jib leech will strike lower spreader
9" in from tip = good idea to place a tape at that point on
spreader.
If the main now has too much back wind, lower
one or two holes on clew board. If the ram is held aft at this
time or the mast is held straight lower 1/3 = release ram control
to allow mast to float. Now cleat ram in neutral position so that
boom vang may be used and will not induce more low mast been unless
desired and if so release ram and allow mast to move forward at
deck line, this action will flatten lower 1/3 of main sail and
also effect set to lower batten. If low batten (leech) is up,
this is flaps down for pointing and slow speeds. The ram forward
and outhaul will trip this batten and boat will accelerate.
Mast set up: Winds
15 25 m.p.h.
Release mask rake control while sailing
to windward (in winds over 15 m.p.h.) until when trimmed to maximum
mainsheet tension the blocks on the main traveler are 8" top of
traveler block to bottom of the boom block.
When raking the mast the jib clew lowers and
releases the jib leech opening the slot" between jib leech relationship
to spreader should now be 3" in from spreader tip. If the wind
increases into the twenties the jib car can be released outward
until leech of jib is at spreader tip or beyond.
Ram should be induced at this time to flatten
lower sail camber lock ram when desired flatness of main is
achieved so the boom vang may be played aggressively.
Running back stay must be lead to boomkin for
best results. Some runner is used in all conditions over 6 m.p.h.
When sailing in 20 m.p.h. pull until you can no longer move the
fine tune control.
Mast tune (Athwartship)
The column should be straight or a slight sag
from deck to tip put intermediate shroud at center of mast,
top shroud should be just forward with lower forward of top mast
on all large section carbon mast.
Aluminum mast and small section carbon masts
may have lower in aft mast position of the 3 (but no open holes
between shrouds at chain plate). Tension shrouds to be very taut.
Jib traveler should be 21" off center
when sailing 0 15 m.p.h. Winds over 15 m.p.h. try the leads
28" off center.
Main traveler on center until over powered,
then move down or outward to control angle of heel.
Rules when easing main, the sail will
camber (get deeper) when dropping traveler outward or down this
act will depower. So much for set up by the numbers lets
talk about sail handling and crew work, in winds around 10 m.p.h.
which is boat speed conditions.
Considering the crew is all on the windward rail
and hiking out the following guide lines must be followed.
- The lee rail must be wet or just dry. Never have any water
on the deck because we will lose the lateral resistance of the
bilge boards.
- If the outside tickler on the jib begins to flutter or jump
and the boat goes flat in the water, the crew has missed the
opportunity to move ahead of the wind pressure in order to maintain
the perfect heel angle. If the inside tickler of the jib stalls
it should be up to the helmsman to pull the bow down to maintain
heel angle without crew movement.
- The crew and shipper must always present the boat for Mother
Nature before she arrives to the boat. In short, if sailing
into puff the skipper heads up the crew hikes and the mainsheet
person and traveler person must stand ready to act. The jib
person would be first to act if the new puff is a lift the jib
should be cambered then the bow will start into the wind with
little effort from the helmsman. Then the jib is trimmed once
the heel angle is stabilized and the track of the hull is to
the wind. This act is probably followed by the mainsheet person
easing the main and the traveler lowered but only for the duration
of the puff.
Most crews do really well on increase wind
pressure but the crews that win anticipate the hulls and start
the power up procedure before the boat enters the lull. This
is the challenge and the crew calling the wind and pressure
consistently will probably be the winner.
Bilge boards
on the A are large in profile and can be pulled up to 8" in a
breeze to release the "constipation" and windward helm.
Obviously time in the boat is the big winner.
A crew of 6 or 7 needs to work as one, with each person doing
the job required to win or gain boat speed. Present the boat on
every angle to the wind. (This must be practiced).
If the wind shifts up the wind, it certainly
does down the wind and must be played aggressively in short
learn how to jibe to take advantage.
Handling the asymmetrical
spinnaker
- Always set up the sheets aft of the tack line.
- Tape main halyard, tack line, sheets so they will never release
inadvertently.
- Stuff in chute bag clew first, tack second the leech and luff
next.
Start hoist and when head is between spreaders,
call for tack out. Halyard and tack line must always be pulled
through cleats so if the sail hits the "piss" it will not fall
completely into the "drag mode". The clew sheets must be eased
to facilitate a quick fill without a lot of side load that may
capsize the rig.
Crew position
as indicator to bilge board position. If 3 or more crew members
are sitting to leeward the bilge board must be near to maximum
down. If 3 or 4 crew members are on the high side (15 to 25 m.p.h.)
the bilge board can now be pulled to ½ position. This will let
the hull skid, then track to higher speeds under greater control.
Main trim 0
10 m.p.h. when crew is to leeward the sail trim is just beyond
a luff (usually seen at the lower spreader). A very large effort
by crew to wet the rail to reduce wetted surface. Helmsman scallops
to leeward, working pressure to sail deep. The main must be eased,
trimmed and played incessantly in these conditions.
15 to 25 m.p.h. with crew on the rail the main
must be over trimmed just like ice boating because the wind has
been brought forward trimmed to the low transom corner is experience.
But watch it when jibing or takedowns, the main must immediately
be eased to proper wind angle or capsize is possible.
The Mexican takedown
is probably the safest of all takedowns and the simplest when
approaching the bottom mark on starboard tack with a port rounding
simply stay outside the 2 boat length circle until abeam of the
mark to round to port. Step one is drop the starboard, step two
is to over trim the kite as the helmsman begins to turn down.
As the helmsman is pleased with the clew coming to the lee rail
he accelerates the turn and at the same time calls "Monica". (Blow
the halyard) the boat jibes and the kite is against the rig
the crew is on the proper high side of the boat as she reaches
(not runs) to the mark to round. There can be a reverse Mexican
which is jibing to starboard from above the lee mark and then
jibe again to round to port or reverse Mexican could be used at
the starboard gate (as we said above to round the port gate).
The Mexican can be performed from a full plane to within 2 boat
lengths of the mark turn.
Forward takedown
can be used in winds under 10 m.p.h. This takedown starts
by retrieving the lazy sheet by the 2nd crew forward or jib man
this will be used to haul in foot as sail reverses. Next the
tack line and sprit pole are released simultaneously and the 3
crew members go "zonkers" retrieving the foot the body of the
sail as halyard is released dont use this system when crew
is necessary on the rail for stability.
Windward takedown
simply pull the clew to the port side of the boat when making
a port tack approach be aggressive because the foot can catch
the water between the tack and the forestay on the starboard side,
the sheet tender must trim the windward sheet as the forward hands
jump in to help with pulling on this windward sheet. xxx(Clews)
keep the foot under tension and you wont shrimp). xxx When the
foot of the sail is taut between tack and clew. Monica!
|